Discover the Temple of Portunus, a hidden gem in the heart of Rome. A piece of history that tells more than you’d expect. Recommended for those who love getting lost among ancient stones.
Where is it located?
The Temple of Portunus in Rome: the unexpected story
The Temple of Portunus, also known as the Temple of Fortuna Virilis, is one of those places you might miss while wandering around Rome. Located in the Forum Boarium, near the Tiber River, this small rectangular temple stands out for its classic Roman architecture. With its Ionic columns of travertine and a cella made of tufa and brick, the temple dates back to the 1st century BC, when it was built to honor Portunus, the god of ports and gates. Its simple yet elegant lines, along with its strategic location near the river, make it a fascinating example of the Roman ability to blend practicality and beauty. The Temple of Portunus has been miraculously well-preserved, thanks to its conversion into a church during the Middle Ages, which helped to protect it. Although often overshadowed by the city’s more famous attractions, this temple is an ideal stop for those who want to explore a less touristy but equally evocative Rome.
From gods to saints: the journey of the Temple of Portunus
Birth of an ancient temple
Built in the 1st century BC, the Temple of Portunus is one of the few examples of Roman religious architecture that have survived almost intact to the present day. Dedicated to Portunus, the god of ports, it was a place of worship for merchants who ventured along the Tiber.
From antiquity to the Middle Ages
In the 4th century AD, with the decline of paganism, the temple was converted into a Christian church, dedicated to Saint Mary of Egypt. This change allowed the structure to be preserved, while many other Roman buildings were destroyed or abandoned.
A modern restoration
In the 19th century, the temple underwent major restoration work, which brought its original structure back to light, removing medieval additions. Today, the Temple of Portunus is a protected monument, symbolizing the resilience and continuous transformation of Rome.
The Temple that changed religion
It is said that during the Middle Ages, the faithful who attended the church of Saint Mary of Egypt at the Temple of Portunus believed that praying here would bring good luck on their travels. Despite its new Christian dedication, the temple retained its aura of sanctity linked to travel and trade, so much so that many Christian merchants continued to appeal to Portunus, now "disguised" as a Christian saint, to ensure a safe return from their expeditions. This duality between ancient and new worship reflects Rome’s ability to absorb and transform cultures, keeping its history alive through the centuries.
The Temple of Portunus: a corner of Rome you shouldn’t miss
If you’re one of those who love discovering lesser-known but historically rich places, the Temple of Portunus is a must-visit. You won’t find yourself surrounded by crowds of tourists, but you will have the opportunity to immerse yourself in a piece of Roman history that still tells its ancient legends today. Walking around the temple, you’ll feel transported to another era, when Rome was the center of the known world. It’s a place that speaks to you silently, without the need to show off, and perhaps for this very reason it manages to capture the soul of those who know how to listen.
Why I Recommend It
Because I recommend it: I recommend it because the Temple of Portunus is a small treasure of history that allows you to reflect on how our perception of the sacred and the profane changes over time. It’s a lesson in humility for those who think that everything important must be obvious.
Why I Don’t Recommend It
Because I don’t recommend it: I don’t recommend it because if you’re looking for grandeur and spectacular monuments, this temple might seem too modest and fail to satisfy your desire for "wonder."
